Is your collagen not working? Doctor breaks down why - and the trick that helps skin look firmer and more hydrated

The problem boils down to absorption, according to Professor Najlah. Numerous collagen supplements fail because their molecules are simply too large for the body to take in properly, or they're not delivered in a stable enough format.

"Most collagen powders are made of molecules that are simply too big to be absorbed, so they never reach the skin," he said.

So what about all those products boasting Type I, II, or III collagen? According to Professor Najlah, it's largely marketing noise.

"The idea of 'the best type of collagen for anti-ageing' is actually misleading. The 'types' of collagen Type I, II, III don't matter when you ingest them," he said.

The reason is simple; once you swallow collagen, your body breaks it all down into tiny peptides, regardless of what type it started as.

"What does matter is the exact tripeptide sequence and whether your body can absorb and use it," Professor Najlah explained.

He added that only specific bioactive tripeptides, delivered in a form that actually survives the digestive process, have been shown to support skin elasticity, hydration and a smoother appearance.

The real question isn't whether a product is "better than collagen" but whether your body can actually absorb and use what you're taking.

"What makes a meaningful difference are specific, bioactive tripeptides that can support fibroblast activity when delivered in an absorbable form," Professor Najlah said.

Many standard collagen products simply don't offer this level of precision.

The key lies in advanced delivery systems that protect these specific peptides, so they survive digestion and reach where they're needed.

Professor Najlah, who formulates for Elle Sera, explained that his team spent four years developing technology to address this exact problem.

"We created an advanced delivery system that protects highly specific tripeptides, the ones we know can actually work," he said.

So when can you actually expect to see results? Professor Najlah offered some realistic timelines.

For standard hydrolysed collagen, most studies show visible changes after eight to 12 weeks, but only if the peptides are properly absorbed, which remains a significant hurdle.

With advanced delivery technology, users often notice improved hydration and radiance within three to four weeks, while elasticity and fine-line improvements become more apparent over eight to 12 weeks.

Hair and nails require more patience due to their natural growth cycles, with changes typically appearing after eight to 16 weeks.

The good news for those with joint concerns is that improvements can be noticed in as little as one to two weeks.

"Enhanced absorption helps support faster and more consistent results compared with standard collagen supplements," Professor Najlah said.