Valentino Garavani dies aged 93 as tributes pour in for the legendary Italian fashion designer

His death marks the end of an era for haute couture, after more than five decades shaping the wardrobes of royalty, Hollywood stars and first ladies with his romantic, meticulously crafted designs.

Born in Voghera in northern Italy on May 11 1932, Mr Garavani would go on to become one of the most influential figures in twentieth-century fashion, creating gowns that came to define modern glamour.

He relocated to Paris at the age of 17 to pursue his passion, enrolling at the École des Beaux-Arts and the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne.

His early career included apprenticeships with some of the industry’s most distinguished designers, including Jacques Fath and Cristóbal Balenciaga, followed by work alongside Jean Dessès and Guy Laroche.

Returning to Italy in 1959, Mr Garavani established his atelier on Rome’s prestigious Via Condotti, formally launching the house of Valentino the following year.

That period proved pivotal when he met Giancarlo Giammetti, who became both his romantic partner for 12 years and his business collaborator for more than half a century.

Together, the pair built a global fashion empire that elevated Italy’s status on the international luxury stage.

Mr Garavani became synonymous with a vivid shade of red that came to bear his name, though his signature palette also included fuchsia, lilac and pristine whites.

His design philosophy remained strikingly simple throughout his career. “I know what women want. They want to be beautiful,” he said in the 2008 documentary Valentino: The Last Emperor.

While fashion oscillated between minimalism and excess, he remained committed to embellishment, sumptuous silks, intricate lacework and elegant pleating.

It was his eveningwear that secured his legendary status, with gowns designed to command attention the moment a woman entered a room.

Rather than chasing fleeting trends, Mr Garavani created pieces intended to transcend their moment, instinctively understanding the theatrical power of exceptional clothing.

Jacqueline Kennedy discovered his work in 1964 and was so captivated that she purchased six couture pieces, wearing them throughout her period of mourning following President Kennedy’s assassination.

When she married Aristotle Onassis in 1968, the former first lady chose a white Chantilly lace gown with a pleated skirt from the designer’s 1967 collection.

Elizabeth Taylor also forged a lasting connection with the house after wearing a white feather-trimmed Valentino gown to the Spartacus premiere in 1960.

Princess Diana became a close friend, frequently wearing his designs and holidaying aboard his yacht during the 1990s as she sought refuge from intense media scrutiny.

Julia Roberts’ vintage black-and-white Valentino gown at the 2001 Oscars, when she won Best Actress for Erin Brockovich, remains one of the ceremony’s most celebrated fashion moments.

Mr Garavani announced his retirement in 2007, presenting his final haute couture collection in January 2008 at Paris’s Musée Rodin, with Claudia Schiffer, Naomi Campbell and Shalom Harlow among the models.

“At this time, I have decided that it is the perfect moment to say adieu to the world of fashion,” he said. “As the English say, I would like to leave the party when it is still full.”

The designer had lived with his partner Bruce Hoeksema, a former vice president of the fashion house, since 1982.

His body will lie in repose at PM23, Piazza Mignanelli 23 in Rome, on Wednesday and Thursday from 11am to 6pm.

A funeral service will be held on January 23 at 11am at the Basilica of Santa Maria degli Angeli e dei Martiri in Piazza della Repubblica, Rome.